Review: Stirs the Soul Origins Ecuador

Richard's Rating: 6.0

chocolate maker Stirs the Soul bar Origins Ecuador region Ecuador plantation (blend) cacao trees Criollo year 2011 size 47g ~ 1.65oz cocoa solids 88% added fat cocoa butter sweetener agave emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients salt list price $6.25

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, image imprint, bubbles aroma floral, earth (must), spice, cocoa, fruit (berry) snap medium hard taste earth, floral, citrus, coffee, acidic, hint of sour melt smooth length short finish somewhat sour, slightly acidic

Oregon chocolate maker Daren Hayes has been hand-crafting stone-ground bean to bar raw chocolate as Stirs the Soul since 2006. With a motto of "conscious raw chocolate", Stirs the Soul ensures the temperature during processing never exceeds 111 degrees Fahrenheit (44°C).

Daren uses only organic or wild ingredients in his chocolate, and buys his cacao beans at fair trade or higher prices from those using sustainable practices. He avoids cane sugar, uses alternative low glycemic sweeteners (agave, date, honey, and coconut palm), and produces his chocolate in a nut, gluten, soy, and dairy free environment, which he finds helpful for those with food sensitivities. Stirs the Soul makes two single origin chocolates, three unflavored chocolates, many flavored chocolates, as well as chocolate confections and other cacao products. Origins Ecuador is one of the two single origin bars.

Origins Ecuador contained 88% cocoa solids and was made from Criollo cacao beans, cocoa butter, agave, and salt. The cacao beans were purchased from an individual farmer in Ecuador and the cocoa butter was made from those same beans. All of the ingredients were raw other than the salt. Although the bar was not certified, the ingredients were all organic. The 1.65 ounce bar was unscored, had raised areas, and was imprinted with a design of cacao pods. It came wrapped in two layers, wax paper under purple foil, inside a paper sleeve. The bar we reviewed was made on 20 October 2011, and had a best before date of 20 April 2012.

The chocolate had color similar to that of the other raw Ecuador chocolate we've reviewed: a medium-dark brown close to Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015), but with some added red. The surface of the bar was smooth, but had several bubbles. The snap was medium hard.

Origins Ecuador smelled of the familiar floral, musty earth, spice, and cocoa scents, but I also noticed a berry fruit in the aroma.

The taste, though, was somewhat different. The same earth and floral flavors were present, but I also tasted citrus and coffee. It was acidic, but had only a hint of sourness (much less than in Pacari's raw chocolates).

The chocolate had a smooth melt. The chocolate flavor lasted about 15 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving it a short length. The sourness grew a little in the aftertaste, giving a finish that was somewhat sour and slightly acidic.

This was another raw chocolate that breaks the stereotype of raw chocolate having poor taste. Origins Ecuador was as good as many roasted chocolates. Even compared against other single origin Ecuador chocolate we've reviewed, it ranked only a little below the median.

You can purchase Origins Ecuador bars in packs of two for $12.50 in the U.S. directly from Stirs the Soul, or internationally if you phone them at 503-774-4903.

Review: Chocolate Conspiracy Dark Bar

Richard's Rating: 7.0

chocolate maker Chocolate Conspiracy bar Dark Bar region Ecuador plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2011 size 57g ~ 2.0oz cocoa solids 74% added fat cocoa butter sweetener wildflower honey emulsifier (none) flavoring vanilla other ingredients (none) list price $9.50

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, scoring aroma floral, spice, earth, cocoa, vanilla, sweet snap medium hard taste floral, spice, earth, cocoa, sweet (honey), fruit (berry) melt less smooth length medium finish somewhat acidic, somewhat sour

Utah chocolate maker AJ Wentworth began making raw chocolate as The Chocolate Conspiracy in 2009. With a background in nutrition, AJ handcrafts his healthy raw chocolate from organic ingredients, ensuring the temperature never exceeds 105 degrees Fahrenheit (41°C). At present, all of his chocolate is made from raw certified organic single origin cacao beans sourced from Pacari in Ecuador. In addition to its unflavored Dark Bar, The Chocolate Conspiracy makes flavored raw chocolate bars, raw chocolate confections, and bulk raw cacao products (nibs, cocoa powder, cocoa butter, and chocolate).

Although it was not printed on the wrapper, Dark Bar contained 74% cocoa solids. It was made from cacao beans, cocoa butter (from the same beans), local wildflower honey, and vanilla bean. All of the ingredients were raw, and all but the honey were certified organic. The two ounce bar was scored into 12 pieces. It came wrapped in gold foil-sided paper inside a paper wrapper. The best before date was 5 May 2012.

The coloring of this chocolate was similar to Pacari's Raw 70% and Raw 85% bars: a medium-dark brown that didn't quite match Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) due to additional redness (a bit more than both Pacari bars). The surface of the bar was smooth, but not glossy. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma of Dark Bar was a combination of floral, spice, earthy, cocoa, vanilla, and sweet scents. The spice was particularly intriguing, and I even resorted to going through our entire spice rack in search of that scent, but was not able to identify it. Even though the sweetness did not smell like honey to me, perhaps the scent came partially from the wildflower honey?

The chocolate tasted nearly the same as it smelled, with floral, spice, earth, and cocoa flavors. There was a honey sweetness and a berry fruit flavor as well.

The melt was less smooth, and most pieces had a grainy bit or two. Dark Bar had a medium length, with the chocolate flavor lasting 25 to 30 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The aftertaste was somewhat acidic and somewhat sour.

Overall, I found the aroma compelling and enjoyed the flavor of this chocolate more than that of the Pacari raw bars. I wanted to rate Dark Bar even higher, but couldn't due to the melt and finish. It will be interesting to see where it ends up in a raw chocolate ranking (which we'll do after we complete individual ratings). If all raw chocolate bars taste as good as those from The Chocolate Conspiracy and Pacari, then the poor reputation of raw chocolate has become false.

You can purchase Dark Bar for $9.50 in the U.S. and Canada directly from The Chocolate Conspiracy.

Review: Pacari Raw 70%

Richard's Rating: 7.5

chocolate maker Pacari bar Raw 70% region Ecuador plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2012 size 50g ~ 1.8oz cocoa solids 70% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier sunflower lecithin flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price $5.99

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, scoring, scuffing aroma floral, earth (must), vinegar, cocoa, spice, fruit snap medium hard taste fruit (berry, raisin, citrus, hint of apple), floral (jasmine), sour, acidic, cocoa, earth, sweet, nut melt smooth length short finish acidic, somewhat sour

Pacari makes single origin certified organic chocolate locally in Ecuador. They pay above-market prices to support sustainable organic agriculture and social responsibility. Pacari makes both raw and roasted chocolate bars. Their raw chocolates are all produced at temperatures below 48 degrees Celsius (118°F). Raw 70% is one of their three unflavored raw chocolate bars (the others are Raw 85% and Raw 100%, both previously reviewed).

The ingredients of Raw 70% were cacao beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter, and sunflower lecithin. The 70% cocoa solids included additional cocoa butter made from those same beans. The 50 gram bar was scored into 15 pieces. It came enclosed in a silver plastic pouch inside a paper box. The best before date was 27 January 2014.

The color of this chocolate was very close to that of Raw 85%, not matching a medium-dark brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) due to having additional red. The surface of the bar was smooth, but not glossy. There was slight scuffing and a few adhered bits of chocolate. The snap was medium hard.

Raw 70% had an aroma similar to Pacari's other raw bars, with floral, musty earth, vinegar, cocoa, spice, and fruit scents. There was a little more vinegar in this aroma.

The chocolate had the most fruit flavor among the three, with a complex mix of berry, raisin, citrus, a hint of apple, and likely other fruits I didn't identify. It had many additional flavors, such as floral in the form of jasmine, cocoa, earthy, and nutty, while tasting acidic, sour, and sweet.

The melt was smooth. The chocolate flavor lasted 15 to 20 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a short length. The finish was acidic and somewhat sour.

Overall, in spite of the excessive acidity in the finish, I liked Raw 70% best among Pacari's raw bars due to its fascinating taste.

You can purchase Raw 70% for $5.99 in the U.S. and Canada directly from Pacari or for $5.75 from Chocosphere. You can buy Raw 70% for £2.99 in the U.K. and other countries from The Raw Chocolate Shop.

Review: Pacari Raw 85%

Richard's Rating: 7.0

chocolate maker Pacari bar Raw 85% region Ecuador plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2011 size 50g ~ 1.8oz cocoa solids 85% added fat (none) sweetener cane sugar emulsifier sunflower lecithin flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price $5.99

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, scoring, scuffing, bubbles aroma floral, earth (must), cocoa, vinegar, dairy, spice, hint of fruit snap medium hard taste fruit (berry, cherry, tropical), earth, sour, acidic, tart, tannin melt smooth length short finish tannin, somewhat sour, slightly acidic

Ecuador chocolate maker Pacari makes single origin organic chocolate locally in Ecuador. They pay above-market prices to support sustainable organic agriculture and social responsibility. Pacari makes both raw and roasted chocolate bars. Raw 85% is one of their three unflavored raw chocolate bars.

The ingredients of Raw 85% were cacao beans, cane sugar, and sunflower lecithin. All 85% of the cocoa solids came from cacao beans (i.e., there was no added cocoa butter). The 50 gram bar was scored into 15 pieces. It came enclosed in a silver plastic pouch inside a paper box. The best before date was May 2013.

The color of this chocolate was difficult to describe, as it didn't match any of the PANTONE colors well. It was probably closest to Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015), but had more red. The brown was also on the lighter side in medium-dark. The surface of the bar was smooth, but not glossy. There was some scuffing, small bubbles, and a few adhered bits of chocolate. The snap was medium hard.

Raw 85% had an aroma similar to Raw 100%: strong floral, musty earth, cocoa, vinegar, dairy, and spice. The fruit scent was weaker from this chocolate than from Raw 100%.

The taste of Raw 85% was fruity, with berry, cherry, and tropical fruit flavors. The other flavors I tasted were earth, sour, acidic, tart, and tannin. The sourness, while still strong, was less dominant than it was in Raw 100%.

This chocolate had a smooth melt. The chocolate flavor lasted 10 to 15 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a short length. The finish was tannin, somewhat sour, and slightly acidic.

After reviewing Raw 85%, I tasted it against the other 11 single origin Ecuador chocolate bars we've reviewed, and found it came in fourth in our updated stack ranking. If all raw chocolates are this good, the poor taste reputation of raw chocolates is completely undeserved. You can see our most current rankings of single origin chocolates on the Chocolate Rankings page.

You can purchase Raw 85% for $5.99 in the U.S. and Canada directly from Pacari or for $5.75 from Chocosphere.

Review: Pacari Raw 100%

Richard's Rating: 7.0

chocolate maker Pacari bar Raw 100% region Ecuador plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2011 size 50g ~ 1.8oz cocoa solids 100% added fat (none) sweetener (none) emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price $5.99

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, scoring, scuffing aroma floral, earth (must), cocoa, spice, fruit (berry, citrus), vinegar snap medium hard taste fruit, sour, earth, bitter, acidic, dairy melt smooth length medium finish somewhat sour, slightly acidic

Since 2002, Pacari has been making single origin organic chocolate in Ecuador with cacao obtained directly from local farms. This family-owned chocolate maker pays above-market prices to support sustainable agriculture and social responsibility. In February, Pacari received Demeter certification for biodynamic agriculture (though their packaging does not yet display the label). Pacari makes both raw and roasted chocolate bars. The raw chocolate bars vary in their percentage of cocoa solids: 100%, 85%, and 70%.

Raw 100% was made from cacao beans and nothing else, not even added cocoa butter. The 50 gram bar was scored into 15 pieces. It came enclosed in a plastic pouch inside a paper box. The best before date was 27 October 2013.

The chocolate had a medium-dark brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) color. The surface was smooth, but not glossy. There was some scuffing and some adhered bits of chocolate. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma was a powerful combination of floral, musty earth, cocoa, spice, and fruit. The fruit scent seemed to be berry and citrus. I also noticed vinegar.

Raw 100% tasted primarily of fruit and a strong sourness. I had difficulty identifying any specific fruit flavors, tasting something vaguely tropical at times, as well as suggestions of berry and citrus, but none consistently enough to be sure. Other flavors included earth, bitter, acidic, and dairy.

The melt started somewhat slowly, but was smooth. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting 35 to 40 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The finish was somewhat sour and slightly acidic, with the somewhat sour aftertaste remaining for a long time.

Overall, Raw 100% was an impressive addition to the 100% category. Despite the poor reputation of raw chocolate taste, I found this as good as its roasted peers. I compared it against the other 100% chocolates we've reviewed, and felt it deserved third place behind Valrhona Manjari Pure Pate and Pralus Le 100%. You can see all of our rankings on the Chocolate Rankings page. For those who like 100% chocolate and aren't put off by a sour taste, I'd recommend trying Pacari Raw 100%.

You can purchase Raw 100% for $5.99 in the U.S. and Canada directly from Pacari or, to perhaps combine the purchase with other brands, for $5.75 from Chocosphere. You can buy Raw 100% for £2.99 in the U.K. and other countries from The Raw Chocolate Shop.

Raw Chocolate

One of the steps in making traditional chocolate is roasting cacao beans, which subjects them to high temperatures that reduce antioxidants and other beneficial health properties of the cacao. Raw chocolate typically minimizes processing and maintains the cacao and other ingredients at low temperatures throughout.

At present, there is neither an accepted temperature limit for raw chocolate nor third-party certification for it. The raw food community seems to generally use a threshold of 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit), though some go as high as 49°C (120°F).

Raw chocolate has a reputation for being healthier than, but not tasting as good as, chocolate made from roasted cacao beans. The taste of raw chocolate, however, has been improving and a few makers seem to be crafting chocolate just as delicious as that made from roasted beans.

Over the next month, we will be reviewing raw chocolate bars from the Chocolate Conspiracy, Fearless, Fine & Raw, Gnosis, Pacari, and Stirs the Soul.

Review: Divine 70% Dark

Richard's Rating: 5.5

chocolate maker Divine bar 70% Dark region Ghana plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 100g ~ 3.5oz cocoa solids 70% added fat cocoa butter sweetener sugar emulsifier lecithin flavoring vanilla other ingredients (none) list price $3.99

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, scoring, lined, scuffing aroma roast (tobacco), earth, spice, vanilla, coconut snap medium hard taste roast (cocoa, hint of tobacco), sweet (molasses), vanilla, fruit, hint of earth melt smooth length short finish very slightly bitter

Divine Chocolate is part-owned by the Kuapa Kokoo cooperative of cacao farmers in Ghana. They make fair trade chocolate and two unflavored dark chocolate bars: 85% Dark and this one: 70% Dark. Both are single origin chocolates made with cacao from Ghana.

This chocolate contained 70% cocoa solids and had ingredients of cocoa mass, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, and vanilla. The 100 gram bar was scored into 24 pieces, each imprinted with horizontal and vertical lines separated in half with a diagonal line. It came enclosed in brass-colored foil inside a black paper wrapper covered with gold Adinkra symbols. The best before date was February 2013.

70% Dark had a medium-dark brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) color. The surface was smooth with some scuffing. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma of this chocolate was a tobacco roast with earth. Scents of spice, vanilla, and coconut were also present.

The chocolate tasted of a cocoa roast, with little of the tobacco or earthiness of the aroma. There was a sweet molasses flavor as well as vanilla and some fruit I didn't identify.

70% Dark had a smooth melt. The chocolate flavor lasted about 10 to 15 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a short length. The finish was very slightly bitter.

Overall, 70% Dark was superior to 85% Dark, lacking the bitter flavor and much of the bitter aftertaste. It's one of the better chocolates at the $1.25 per ounce and under price points, as you can see on our Best Chocolate Values page.

You can purchase 70% Dark for $3.99 in the U.S. directly from Divine USA or for £2.00 in the U.K. directly from Divine.

Sale: 15% off Taza chocolate through Monday

Taza is running a sale today through Monday for 15% off everything at their online store.

On the Shopping Cart page, simply enter 15March in the "Enter coupon or promotional code here:" field and press the SUBMIT button to apply the 15% discount (you will see the discount applied before you continue).

Although Taza occasionally has 20% off sales, the last time they did so was in November. The 15% off sale ends at 11:59 p.m. ET on Monday, March 26th.

Taza ships to the United States, Canada, and Europe. Additional shipping information can be found here.

Sale: 20% off Original Beans at WWC

World Wide Chocolate has 20% off Original Beans, Lindt, and Valor chocolate using coupon code SPECIAL20 during checkout (through March 27th). That's a great price for Original Beans chocolate bars, though not for Lindt (which can still be found for less at frequent sales at many retail stores).

They are still continuing several of their 15% off sales by nationality:

• Amano, Blommer, Ghirardelli, Guittard, Lake Champlain, Patric, Potomac, Scharffer Berger, Taza, and Vermont Nut Free chocolate using coupon code AMERICAN15
• Cacao Barry, Bonnat, Bernard Castelain, Michel Cluizel, Yves Thuries, Francois Pralus, and Valrhona chocolate using coupon code FRENCH15
• Divine, Hachez, and Viviani chocolate using coupon code GERMAN15
• Amedei, Domori, L'Artigiano, Maglio, Slitti, and Venchi chocolate using coupon code ITALIAN15

You can view the full list of promotions here.

REMINDER: Only one coupon code is allowed per order.

In addition, the first 30 buyers to add "Free Lake Champlain Squares" in the Comments field during checkout will receive 5 free bite-size chocolate squares of Lake Champlain chocolate.

World Wide Chocolate only ships to United States, APO (military), and FPO (diplomatic) addresses. Full information can be found at World Wide Chocolate shipping policies.

Review: Divine 85% Dark

Richard's Rating: 5.0

chocolate maker Divine bar 85% Dark region Ghana plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 100g ~ 3.5oz cocoa solids 85% added fat cocoa butter sweetener sugar emulsifier lecithin flavoring vanilla other ingredients cocoa powder list price $3.99

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1314 Seal Brown texture smooth, imprints, scoring aroma roast (coffee), vanilla, earth, spice, coconut snap hard taste roast (coffee, cocoa), earth, nut, somewhat bitter melt smooth length short finish bitter

Kuapa Kokoo is a cooperative of cacao farmers in Ghana that helped establish the Day Chocolate Company in 1998 to make a fair trade chocolate bar from their cacao. In 2007, Day Chocolate became Divine Chocolate. Kuapa Kokoo owns 45% of Divine Chocolate. You can read more about the interesting history of this company on their website.

Divine makes two single origin unflavored dark chocolate bars: 70% Dark and 85% Dark. 85% Dark obviously contained 85% cocoa solids, and was made from cocoa mass, cocoa butter, sugar, cocoa powder, soy lecithin, and vanilla. Note the addition of cocoa powder to this chocolate.

The full 100 gram bar was scored into 24 pieces, each with either an imprint of the stylized Divine name or an Adinkra symbol. It came enclosed in brass-colored foil inside a black paper wrapper with reflective Adinkra symbols. The best before date was April 2013.

The medium-dark brown color of this chocolate was Seal Brown (PANTONE 19-1314). The surface was smooth with some spots of adhered chocolate bits. The snap was hard.

The aroma of 85% Dark contained scents of a coffee roast, vanilla, earth, spice, and coconut.

85% Dark tasted primarily of a coffee and cocoa roast. Flavors of earth and nut were present. I also found it somewhat bitter.

The melt was smooth, though towards less smooth. The length was short, with the flavor lasting 15 to 20 seconds after the chocolate was gone and leaving a bitter aftertaste.

You can purchase 85% Dark for $3.99 in the U.S. directly from Divine USA or for £2.00 in the U.K. directly from Divine.

Sale: 20% off Amedei at World Wide Chocolate

Sales this week at World Wide Chocolate include 20% off Amedei, Cacao Barry, and Godiva using coupon code SPECIAL20 during checkout (through March 20th).

They are also continuing several of their 15% off sales by nationality:

• Amano, Blommer, Ghirardelli, Guittard, Lake Champlain, Patric, Potomac, Scharffer Berger, Taza, and Vermont Nut Free chocolate using coupon code AMERICAN15
• Cacao Barry, Bonnat, Bernard Castelain, Michel Cluizel, Yves Thuries, Francois Pralus, and Valrhona chocolate using coupon code FRENCH15
• Divine, Hachez, and Viviani chocolate using coupon code GERMAN15
• Amedei, Domori, L'Artigiano, Maglio, Slitti, and Venchi chocolate using coupon code ITALIAN15

You can view the full list of promotions here.

REMINDER: Only one coupon code is allowed per order.

In addition, the first 30 buyers to add "Free Michel Cluizel Squares" in the Comments field during checkout will receive 5 free bite-size chocolate squares of Michel Cluizel chocolate.

World Wide Chocolate only ships to United States, APO (military), and FPO (diplomatic) addresses. Full information can be found at World Wide Chocolate shipping policies.

Review: E. Guittard Sur del Lago

Richard's Rating: 6.0

chocolate maker Guittard bar Sur del Lago region Venezuela plantation (blend) cacao trees Criollo, Trinitario year (unknown) size 57g ~ 2.0oz cocoa solids 65% added fat cocoa butter sweetener sugar emulsifier lecithin flavoring vanilla other ingredients (none) list price $3.89

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, signature imprints, scoring, scuffing, bubbles aroma roast (cocoa, coffee), sweet, vanilla, floral snap hard taste roast, sweet, dairy, spice, fruit (red berry) melt smooth to more smooth length short finish slightly sour

Guittard made Sur del Lago with Criollo and Trinitario cacao beans from the Sur del Lago (literally south of the lake) region of Venezuela. The lake to which they refer is Maracaibo.

This bean to bar chocolate was made with 65% cocoa solids (including added cocoa butter) and had other ingredients of cane sugar, soy lecithin, and vanilla beans. The two ounce bar was scored into 12 pieces, each with an E. Guittard signature imprint. It came enclosed in brass-sided foil inside a paper wrapper. The best before date on the bar I reviewed was August 2012.

Sur del Lago had a medium brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) color. The surface was smooth, but had substantial scuffing and several tiny bubbles. The snap was closer to hard than medium hard.

The aroma of this chocolate consisted of roast, sweet, vanilla, and floral scents. The roast was a mix of mostly cocoa with a little coffee.

I tasted roast and sweet flavors, with some dairy, occasional spice, and fruit. The fruit flavor, which included red berry, was relatively subdued behind the strong sweet roast.

The melt of Sur del Lago was right on the cusp between smooth and more smooth. The flavor lasted 15 to 20 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving it a short length. The finish was slightly sour.

You can purchase Sur del Lago for $3.89 online directly from Guittard, or for $3.25 from Chocosphere.

Review: Escazú Carenero Venezuela

Richard's Rating: 6.0

chocolate maker Escazú bar Carenero, Venezuela region Venezuela plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 80g ~ 2.8oz cocoa solids 81% added fat cocoa butter sweetener sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price $5.99

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth, scoring, bubbles aroma earth (soil, must), roast (tobacco), sweet, dairy, fruit, hint of nut snap medium hard taste roast (tobacco), earth, fruit (cherry), dairy, nut, hint of anise melt more smooth length medium finish slightly sour earth

Escazú makes two pure single origin chocolate bars, their award-winning Guapiles, Costa Rica and this one: Carenero, Venezuela.

Carenero, Venezuela had 81% cocoa solids (including added cocoa butter made from the same cacao beans) and 19% sugar, with no added emulsifier or flavoring. The substantial 80 gram bar was scored into 24 pieces, wrapped in heavy gold-sided foil, and enclosed in a paper sleeve. There was no production date or best before date, and the Batch # space on the sleeve was blank.

The chocolate had a medium-dark brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) color. The surface was smooth, but there were small bubbles in several of the top corners of the pieces and a couple of minor surface imperfections. Overall, the bar had a good temper. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma of Carenero, Venezuela was primarily a combination of a tobacco roast and an earthiness that was mostly soil with some must, with the earth stronger than the roast. In addition, I smelled sweetness and scents of dairy, fruit and a hint of nut.

The taste had similar attributes, but with the strengths reversed: more tobacco roast than earthiness. Underneath those dominant flavors was a mixed fruit flavor that included cherry. I also found some dairy, nuttiness and a hint of anise.

After a slow start, the chocolate had a more smooth melt. The length was medium, with the flavor lasting 20 to 25 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was a slightly sour earthiness.

My initial impression of this chocolate when I tried it at the Northwest Chocolate Festival in October was excellent. However, reviewing it more formally over the past two days, I found that while it had some great qualities, the taste and finish did not appeal as much as I remembered, so I rated it overall as 6.0.

You can purchase Carenero, Venezuela for $5.99 online directly from Escazú, or, to combine the purchase with other brands, from Chocolopolis.

Event: Chocolate for Choice in Seattle, March 15th

Although Chocolate for Choice is not something I'd typically write about on this blog due to it not being about pure unflavored dark chocolate, I thought I would mention it because I'll be one of the judges this year. Chocolate for Choice is an evening of tasting chocolate desserts contributed by over 40 Seattle chocolatiers. The proceeds from admission and additional donations go to support NARAL Pro-Choice Washington.

The event will be held next Thursday, March 15th, from 7 to 9 p.m. at the First Base Terrace Club of Safeco Field (1250 1st Ave. S., Seattle, WA 98134). You can purchase online tickets in advance (starting at $40; for higher prices, you can also fill a box to take home with you with the desserts you like best). Tickets are also available at the door. I've attended several times in the past, and there are always some wonderful chocolate desserts to be eaten. Hope to see you there!

Review: Fresco 218 Chuao

Richard's Rating: 7.0

chocolate maker Fresco bar 218 region Venezuela plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2011 size 40g ~ 1.4oz cocoa solids 76% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1317 Bitter Chocolate texture lined, scoring, bubbles aroma earth, acidic, roast (coffee), fruit snap medium hard taste roast (cocoa, coffee), fruit (citrus, grapefruit, berry) melt smooth length short finish acidic

218 is the other bar from Fresco made with cacao beans from the Chuao region of Venezuela. Fresco 218 differs from 217 in that it has a higher percentage of cocoa solids (76%) and was made using a medium rather than dark roast. As with all of Fresco's chocolate, 218 had ingredients of only cacao beans, cane sugar, and cocoa butter made from those same cacao beans.

The small 40 gram bar was scored into 10 pieces, each lined either horizontally or vertically. It came wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper inside a paper box with some raised reflective gold lettering. The production date of the bar I reviewed was September 29, 2011. The best before date was October 2013.

218 had a medium brown Bitter Chocolate (PANTONE 19-1317) color. The surface of the bar was smooth, but there were tiny bubbles in the top corners of most pieces. The bar had a medium hard snap.

The aroma had scents of earth, acidity, coffee roast, and fruit. The aroma was generally similar to that of 217, but with more earthiness, some acidity, and lacking any spice that I could smell.

The chocolate tasted differently, though. The strong coffee flavor of 217 was much less pronounced in 218 and muted with cocoa flavor in the roast. Late fruit flavors were stronger and brighter, with citrus that I tasted as grapefruit and some berry.

The melt of 218 began slowly, but became smooth, much like 217. The flavor lasted almost 20 seconds after the chocolate was gone, just at the far edge of a short length. The finish was acidic.

It was interesting to compare two such similar chocolates that differed primarily by roast (and a little by cocoa content). Overall, I slightly preferred 217.

Fresco 218 does not appear to be available yet anywhere online. In the meantime, to find this chocolate you might try one of the retail stores that carry Fresco chocolate. If you find it available online, please add a comment with a link. Thanks!

Review: Fresco 217 Chuao

Richard's Rating: 7.0

chocolate maker Fresco bar 217 region Venezuela plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2011 size 40g ~ 1.4oz cocoa solids 70% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture lined, scoring, bubbles aroma roast (coffee), earth, fruit, spice snap medium hard taste roast (coffee), sweet, nut, fruit (raisin, berry) melt smooth length medium finish somewhat bitter, faint coffee

In 2011 some independent chocolate makers got their hands on coveted cacao beans from the Chuao region of Venezuela, where such beans are usually locked up in exclusive long-term contracts by larger makers. Last summer we reviewed three Chuao bars made by Mast Brothers. This week, we're reviewing two made by Fresco.

The first of those two Fresco bars is 217, which was made with 70% cocoa solids (cacao beans and cocoa butter from those same beans) and 30% cane sugar. Rob Anderson made 217 with a dark roast and medium conche.

Fresco's small 40 gram bar was scored into 10 pieces, each lined either horizontally or vertically. The bar came wrapped in silver foil-sided wax paper inside a paper box with some raised reflective silver lettering to acknowledge this special cacao. The production date of the bar I reviewed was September 2, 2011. The best before date was October 2013.

The color of 217 was a medium brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015). The surface was smooth, but there were tiny bubbles in the top corners of nearly every piece. The bar had a medium hard snap.

The chocolate had a coffee roast aroma combined with an earthy scent. I also smelled fruit and spice.

Unsurprisingly, based on the aroma, 217 tasted of coffee roast as well. I next noticed some sweetness and a nutty flavor, before the fruits came out: raisin and berry. Mostly, though, this chocolate tasted of coffee, and reminded me of a café mocha.

After a slow start, the melt was smooth. The length was medium, with the flavor lasting 20 to 25 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was somewhat bitter, with a faint coffee flavor.

This chocolate was better than the Chuaos made by Mast Brothers, but not quite as good as those made by those that have been crafting Chuao chocolate for many years. Take a look at our ranking of Chuao chocolates on the Chocolate Rankings page.

Fresco 217 does not appear to be available yet anywhere online. Please add a comment with a link if you find it somewhere. In the meantime, to find this chocolate you might try one of these retail stores that carry Fresco chocolate.

Review: Amano Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 9.0

chocolate maker Amano bar Madagascar region Madagascar plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 56g ~ 2.0oz cocoa solids 70% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring vanilla other ingredients (none) list price $6.95

color medium-light brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle texture smooth with text imprints, scoring aroma roast (tobacco, cocoa), fruit (berry), spice (vanilla, hint of cinnamon) snap medium hard taste sweet, fruit (citrus, orange, lime, berry, strawberry, raspberry), vanilla, roast melt more smooth length medium finish slightly acidic, slightly sour

U.S. chocolate maker Amano makes eight single origin dark chocolate bars, one of which is Madagascar. The cacao beans for this chocolate came from the renown Sambirano Valley of Madagascar.

The ingredients of Madagascar were the same as Art Pollard's other chocolates: cacao beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter made from the same cacao beans, and vanilla beans. He also used the same ratio of 70% cocoa solids.

The two ounce bar was scored into 15 pieces, each with an imprint of the company name and emblem. It came wrapped in gold-sided foil and packaged inside a glossy paper box. A sticker on the back of the box identified lot number 3/4/90E and a best before date of October 2013.

Madagascar had a medium-light brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. The surface was smooth, with some barely noticeable scuffing. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma contained scents of tobacco and cocoa roast, along with a berry fruit, and a strong vanilla. I also smelled a hint of cinnamon..

I initially tasted sweetness, and then the chocolate revealed a lovely combination of fruit flavors: citrus that was more orange than lime along with berry that was a combination of strawberry and raspberry. Vanilla was also clearly evident over a mild roast flavor.

The melt was just a bit better than smooth and into the more smooth category. The flavor after the chocolate was gone lasted 30 to 35 seconds, giving it a medium length. The finish was slightly acidic and slightly sour.

Overall, other than being a bit too sweet for my palate, this chocolate was great in nearly every way. I was so impressed that, after taking my initial tasting notes, I followed up with a comparative tasting against our two top-ranked Madagascar chocolates (Rogue Sambirano and Patric Madagascar 75%), and Amano Madagascar came out best! It just missed making it onto my list of 10 favorite chocolate bars, and is currently ranked 11. Madagascar won a Gold award in 2009 from the Academy of Chocolate, and it was clearly well-deserved.

Madagascar is not currently available directly from Amano, but you can purchase it online for $6.95 from New Leaf or for $6.99 from Chocolopolis or World Wide Chocolate.

Review: Madécasse 80%

Richard's Rating: 6.0

chocolate maker Madécasse bar 80% region Madagascar plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 75g ~ 2.6oz cocoa solids 80% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price $5.99

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth with stylized cacao bean imprints, scoring, bubbles aroma floral, roast (burnt, smoky), acidic snap medium hard taste roast (burnt), earth (soil), fruit (citrus, berry, apricot, lime), nut melt smooth length short finish roast (burnt), slightly acidic

Madécasse makes single origin Madagascar chocolate locally in Madagascar. They work closely with the nearby Ezaka Cooperative of cacao farmers from whom they purchase beans at well above fair trade prices.

Unlike the 70% and 75% bars, Madécasse 80% had neither soy lecithin nor vanilla among its ingredients. It was made from only cacao beans, sugar, and cocoa butter.

The 80% bar used the same molds: 75 grams scored into 24 pieces, each with a stylized cacao imprint. It was wrapped in gold-sided foil and put inside a paper envelope. The best before date on the wrapper was January 2012, so I reviewed this chocolate more than a month past its best.

The color of this chocolate was a medium brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015). The surface of the bar was smooth, with several bubbles (many more than 70% or 75%). The snap was medium hard.

80% had an aroma similar to the other bars: an initial floral, then a burnt and smoky roast, and some acidity. I didn't notice the expected fruit scent.

The chocolate tasted of burnt roast, but it wasn't smoky as with 70% and 75%. I experienced an earthy soil flavor before the fruits came out: citrus, berry, apricot, and lime. There was some nuttiness as well.

The melt was slower than 70% and 75%, but still smooth. The length was short, with flavor after the chocolate was gone lasting 15 to 20 seconds. The final aftertaste was a slightly acidic burnt roast.

You can purchase 80% online for $5.99 directly from Madécasse. At the time of this posting, Chocosphere has a clearance sale on 80% bars with a best before date of January 2012 at half off: 2 for $5.95.

Review: Madécasse 75%

Richard's Rating: 6.0

chocolate maker Madécasse bar 75% region Madagascar plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 75g ~ 2.6oz cocoa solids 75% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier soy lecithin flavoring vanilla other ingredients (none) list price $5.99

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle texture smooth with stylized cacao bean imprints, scoring, bubbles aroma floral, roast (burnt, smoky), fruit, acidic, spice snap medium hard taste fruit (citrus, berry, cherry), roast (burnt), earth, sweet, tannin melt smooth length short finish slightly acidic, slightly tannin

Madécasse makes single origin Madagascar chocolate locally in Madagascar! They work closely with the nearby Ezaka Cooperative of cacao farmers from whom they purchase beans at well above fair trade prices.

As with their 70% bar, Madécasse 75% was made from cacao beans, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, and vanilla. The 75 gram bar was scored into 24 pieces, each with a stylized cacao imprint. It was wrapped in gold-sided foil and put inside a paper envelope. The best before date on the wrapper of the bar was December 2011, so this chocolate, too, was not at its best for the review.

The chocolate had a medium brown color close to Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431). The surface of the bar was smooth, with a few small bubbles. Signs of a flaw can be seen in the bottom right of the photo above. Some air remained in the chocolate as it cooled, and that left minor gaps in two of the pieces and some bubbles throughout. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma of 75% was similar to that of 70%. The acidity seemed a bit stronger and the spice weaker. Otherwise it smelled much the same: initial floral, a burnt and smoky roast, with fruit, acidity, and spice.

Flavors included fruits in the form of citrus, berry and cherry, a burnt roast, earth, sweetness and tannin. Compared with the 70%, the citrus was stronger and the burnt roast more in the background. It was less sweet and had tannin that I didn't notice in the 70%

75% had a smooth melt. The length was short, with flavor after the chocolate was gone lasting about 15 seconds. The finish was slightly acidic and slightly tannin.

Overall, while quite similar to the 70%, I preferred the flavor and aftertaste of 75%.

You can purchase 75% online for $5.99 directly from Madécasse. As with the 70% bar, Chocosphere is currently running a sale on 75% bars with a best before date of June 2012 for only $4.15 (30% off).