Showing posts with label Madagascar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Madagascar. Show all posts

Thursday, November 19, 2015

Review: Ethereal Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 6.0
chocolate makerEthereal
barMadagascar
regionMadagascar
plantationblend
cacao treesunknown
yearunknown
size64g ~ 2.3oz
cocoa solids80%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$7.50
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
appearancesmooth, scoring, uneven sheen, adhered bits, bubbles
aromaearth (hay), roast (smoke), fruit (raisin, coconut), spice
snapmedium hard
tastefruit (citrus, plum, lime, blueberry), earth, roast (cocoa, smoke), sweet, tannin
meltless smooth
lengthshort
finishsomewhat acidic, somewhat tannin
Mary and Sara Ervin have been crafting hand-made organic chocolate confections and bean to bar chocolate in Woodstock, Illinois, as Ethereal Confections since 2011.

Ethereal's Madagascar chocolate bar was made from all organic ingredients: cacao beans, cane sugar, and cocoa butter. Cocoa solids (cacao beans and cocoa butter) made up 80%, with the remaining 20% being cane sugar.

Inside a thick paper wrap that was sealed with the label, the 2.25 ounce bar came wrapped in pink colored foil . The label also adhered to the foil wrapping along the bottom edge, which made removing the chocolate without breaking the bar a bit challenging. The best before date was September 28, 2017.

The bar was scored into 24 pieces. The chocolate had a smooth surface, with an uneven sheen, some adhered bits, and a few bubbles. The underside was shaped with a thin protruding edge. The chocolate had a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color.

Madagascar had a medium hard snap. The aroma revealed scents of earth, and hay in particular, a smoky roast, fruit, and spice. The fruit scent included raisin and coconut.

The chocolate tasted primarily of fruit, with flavors of citrus, plum, lime and blueberry. In addition, I tasted earth, a cocoa and smoky roast, and sweetness. Some tannin was also present.

The melt had a less smooth texture, but no graininess. The chocolate flavor lasted about 15 to 20 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a short length. The finish was somewhat acidic and somewhat tannin.

Overall, a good chocolate with delicious fruit flavors. For me, the texture needs improvement, but if you enjoy Madagascar interpretations with this flavor profile, give this chocolate a try.

Best Prices Online
$7.50 directly from Ethereal
$7.50 from Chocolate.org
$7.50 from Chocosphere

Monday, November 2, 2015

Review: Bar au Chocolat Sambirano Valley, Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 7.0
chocolate makerBar au Chocolat
barSambirano Valley, Madagascar
regionMadagascar
plantationblend
cacao treesTrinitario
yearunknown
size65g ~ 2.3oz
cocoa solids70%
added fat(none)
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$12.00
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
appearancesmooth, scoring, scuffing, adhered bits
aromaroast (cocoa), fruit (citrus, cherry), earth (grass)
snapmedium hard
tastefruit (citrus, grapefruit, cherry), earth (burlap), sweet (caramel), roast (cocoa), sour
meltsmooth
lengthmedium
finishsomewhat tannin, slightly acidic

Best Prices Online
$12.00 directly from Bar au Chocolat

Saturday, October 31, 2015

Review: Ritual Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 7.5
chocolate makerRitual
barMadagascar
regionMadagascar
plantationSomia
cacao treesunknown
yearunknown
size43g ~ 1.5oz
cocoa solids75%
added fat(none)
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$6.75
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
appearancesmooth, scoring, somewhat glossy
aromafruit (citrus, berry), earth
snaphard
tasteearth, fruit (citrus, grapefruit), nut (walnut), roast (tea), sweet (brown sugar), acidic
meltmore smooth
lengthmedium
finishsomewhat acidic, slightly tannin

Best Prices Online
$6.49 from Caputo's
$6.75 directly from Ritual
$7.00 from Chocolopolis
$7.00 from The Meadow

Monday, August 4, 2014

Review: Dick Taylor Madagascar Sambirano

Richard's Rating: 7.0
chocolate makerDick Taylor
barMadagascar Sambirano
regionMadagascar
plantationblend
cacao treesunknown
year2013
size57g ~ 2.0oz
cocoa solids72%
added fat(none)
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$8.00
colormedium-light brown
PANTONE 19-1526
Dark Red Brown
appearanceimprint, smooth, uneven sheen, bubbles
aromaearth (grass), dairy (cheese), fruit, roast, spice
snaphard
tasteearth, fruit (berry, citrus, lemon), roast (cocoa), molasses, acidic, sour
meltmore smooth
lengthmedium
finishacidic, somewhat tart, somewhat sour
Adam Dick and Dustin Taylor are among the chocolate-making purists, crafting their unflavored chocolate from only cacao beans and cane sugar (with no added cocoa butter, lecithin, or vanilla).

They sourced the cacao for this Madagascar Sambirano bar from Åkesson. Both the cacao beans and cane sugar were organic, though the bar was not certified.

The two ounce bar came wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper inside a paper envelope. It was a single unscored bar with Dick Taylor's intricate imprint. The best before date was August 2014 and the batch number was 13232.

The chocolate had a smooth surface, but the sheen was uneven in a couple of places and there were several bubbles from the finely detailed mold. The color was a medium-light brown Dark Red Brown (PANTONE 19-1526). The snap was hard.

Madagascar Samibrano had an aroma of earth, dairy, fruit, roast, and spice. The earth and dairy were strongest, with more distinct scents of grass and cheese, respectively.

The taste started with some earthiness before the fruit flavors of berry, citrus and lemon came forth. Cocoa roast and molasses were also present. The taste was acidic and slightly sour.

The melt was more smooth, with a slight fudginess. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting about 25 to 30 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The finish was acidic, somewhat tart, and somewhat sour.

Compared with the previous version of this bar we reviewed, the melt has improved. I slightly preferred the taste of that prior incarnation, but overall, this was another great chocolate from Dick Taylor.

You can purchase Madagascar Sambirano online for $8.00 directly from Dick Taylor or for $7.49 from Caputo's.

Saturday, November 23, 2013

Review: Rogue Sambirano

Richard's Rating: 9.0
chocolate makerRogue
barSambirano
regionMadagascar
plantationÅkesson
cacao treesCriollo
year(unknown)
size60g ~ 2.1oz
cocoa solids70%
added fat(none)
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$7.99

colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1317
Bitter Chocolate
appearancesmooth, glossy, uneven sheen, adhered bits
aromafruit (prune), roast (hint of coffee), earth, wood (cedar)
snaphard
tastefruit (citrus, orange, lime, raisin, cherry), roast
meltcreamy
lengthlong
finishacidic
Colin Gasko reformulated Sambirano since we last reviewed it over two years ago. It is now made without any added cocoa butter, and the remaining two ingredients (70% cacao beans and 30% cane sugar) are both organic. The bar was not certified.

The cacao beans for this chocolate came from Bertil Åkesson's plantation in the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. The bar was hand-crafted in the United States at Rogue's nut-free facility in Three Rivers, Massachusetts.

The 60 gram bar came sealed in cellophane inside a paper envelope. The best before date was October 2013.

Rogue created an incredible surface sheen (apologies for not having a photo, but that top surface was simply too reflective :). The bar was unscored and without any imprints or bubbles. Except for an oval from the pour where the sheen was uneven and some tiny adhered bits of chocolate, the bar appeared nearly perfect.

The chocolate was a medium brown Bitter Chocolate (PANTONE 19-1317) color. The bar had a hard snap.

The aroma contained fruit, roast, earth and wood scents. The fruit was mostly prune. The roast contained a hint of coffee. The wood seemed to be cedar.

Sambirano tasted fruity, with citrus flavors of orange and lime. Raisin and cherry came forth shortly thereafter. Roast was also present. The wrapper described the flavor profile as "citrus, rum raisin, toast".

The melt was creamy, with just a suggestion of fudge in the mouthfeel. The length was remarkably long, with the chocolate flavor lasting 50 to 60 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The finish was acidic.

Overall, this was a superb chocolate, and is now among my favorites.

You can purchase Sambirano online for $7.99 directly from Rogue or for $8.00 from Chocolopolis.

Friday, September 13, 2013

Review: Francois Pralus Le 100%

Richard's Rating: 6.5
chocolate makerPralus
barLe 100%
regionMadagascar
plantationPralus
cacao treesCriollo
year(unknown)
size100g ~ 3.5oz
cocoa solids100%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetener(none)
emulsifiersoy lecithin
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price€3,95
colormedium-dark brown
PANTONE 19-1015
Bracken
texturesmooth, scoring, text imprint, uneven sheen, adhered bits
aromaroast (coffee, cocoa), fruit (berry), earth, spice
snapmedium hard
tasteroast (coffee, burnt, malt), wood, fruit (citrus)
meltmore smooth
lengthmedium
finishsomewhat tannin, slightly sour
Pralus sources the cacao for Le 100% from their own plantation on the island of Nosy Be, Madagascar. The bar was certified organic by Ecocert France.

In addition to added cocoa butter, this chocolate included soy lecithin (unlike the previous formulation of Le 100% that we reviewed in 2010). The best before date for this bar was May 11, 2015.

Pralus still sells their chocolate in large 100 gram bars from the same nice molds they have used for many years. Wrapped in gold-sided foil, Le 100% came enclosed inside a paper wrapper. The bar was scored into 24 small pieces and one large piece containing the Pralus imprint.

The color was a little different than earlier version of this chocolate, a medium-dark brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015. The bar had an overall good appearance and a smooth surface, but the sheen was uneven and there were a few bits of adhered chocolate.

Le 100% had a roast aroma of coffee and cocoa. There were additional scents of a berry fruit, earthiness, and spices. The bar had a somewhat softer than typical medium-hard snap

The taste was a heavy roast, with flavors of coffee, burnt, and malt. Other flavors included wood and fruit, the latter of which contained some citrus.

The melt was almost creamy, but still in the more smooth category. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting 35 to 40 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The finish was somewhat tannin and slightly sour.

Until recently, Le 100% had been my favorite 100% bar. Unfortunately, Pralus changed the recipe and used a roast that tastes excessive to me. It is still a good chocolate, but no longer near the top of our ranking of 100% chocolate bars (which you can see in the second list from the bottom on the Chocolate Rankings page).

Pralus Le 100% is available for purchase online for $8.35 from Chocosphere or for $8.50 from Chocolopolis. You can also purchase it for £4.85 from Chocolate Trading Co.

Friday, July 5, 2013

Review: Åkesson's Madagascar Ambolikapiky 75%

Richard's Rating: 6.5
chocolate maker(unknown)
barMadagascar
regionMadagascar
plantationAmbolikapiky
cacao treesCriollo
year2011
size60g ~ 2.1oz
cocoa solids75%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifiersoy lecithin
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list priceN/A
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1012
Dark Brown
texturesmooth, relief, scoring, uneven sheen
aromaearth (grass, hay), roast (cocoa, smoke), fruit
snaphard
tasteroast (smoke, cocoa), fruit (berry, citrus, raisin), sweet
meltsmooth
lengthmedium
finishsomewhat acidic, slightly sour
The Åkesson family has been growing cacao and spices since the 1970s. For decades, they have been supplying fine cacao beans to chocolate makers. Recently Bertil Åkesson launched the Åkesson's line of chocolate and other exotic foods. The first bars were produced in 2009 and Åkesson's currently makes three unflavored plantation chocolate bars: Bali, Brazil, and Madagascar.

One of their plantations is Ambolikapiky in the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. It currently produces about 300 tons per year of Trinitario cacao beans and 2 tons per year of separately harvested Criollo cacao beans. The beans used in making Åkesson's Madagascar bar come from the Criollo cacao of that plantation.

The ingredients of this chocolate were organic cacao, organic cane sugar, organic cocoa butter, and soy lecithin. Cocoa solids made up 75% of the chocolate. It was certified organic by bio.inspecta. Åkesson's chocolate is made by a company in France, but I have not confirmed who they are.

Inside a black paper box, the bar came sealed in a clear cellophane wrapper. The 60 gram bar had the relief of a large "Å" in the center and was scored into 9 pieces of three difference sizes. The best before date was June 6, 2013. Based on its appearance and two years since production, it's likely that this chocolate experienced a period outside of ideal storage conditions.

Madagascar Ambolikapiky had a medium brown Dark Brown (PANTONE 19-1012) color. The surface was smooth, with an uneven grayish sheen. The bar had a hard (almost very hard) snap.

The aroma had a strong earthy scent of mostly grass with a touch of hay. Roast and fruit were also present. The roast contained cocoa and smoke scents. During one review pass, I thought the fruit included peach.

The chocolate tasted of roast and fruit. The roast was smoke and cocoa, like the aroma, but with the smoke stronger than the cocoa. The fruit flavors I tasted were berry, citrus, and raisin. It was also sweet.

The melt was smooth. The flavor lasted 25 to 30 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a medium length. The finish was somewhat acidic and slightly sour.

This chocolate won a silver in the category of "involved in the bean to bar process yet don’t own their own factory" at the Academy of Chocolate's 2011 Awards.

You can purchase Åkesson's Madagascar Ambolikapiky 75% online for $7.95 from The Meadow.

Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Review: Dick Taylor Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 7.0
chocolate makerDick Taylor
barMadagascar
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size57g ~ 2.0oz
cocoa solids72%
added fat(none)
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$7.50
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
textureimprint, smooth, uneven sheen, bubbles
aromaearth, roast, fruit, spice, dairy (cheese), acidic
snaphard
tasteearth, fruit (citrus, lemon, berry, watermelon), roast (cocoa), acidic
meltsmooth
lengthmedium
finishsomewhat acidic, slightly sour
MORE RECENT REVIEW: Dick Taylor Madagascar Sambirano

U.S. chocolate makers Adam Dick and Dustin Taylor craft their bean to bar chocolate from only cacao beans and cane sugar. Dick Taylor currently makes four unflavored single origin chocolate bars: Belize, Bolivia, Dominican Republic, and Madagascar, as well as some flavored ones.

Madagascar contained 72% cacao beans and 28% cane sugar. Both ingredients were organic, though their bars are not certified. The cacao beans were sourced from Bertil Åkesson.

The bar came came wrapped in gold-sided foil inside an outer paper wrapper sealed on the back with a large product sticker. The best before date was September 2013.

Madagascar had a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. As you can see in the bar photo above, Dick Taylor has a beautifully detailed chocolate mold. The top surface was smooth, with an uneven sheen and several tiny bubbles. The snap was hard.

The aroma contained earth, roast, fruit, spice, and dairy scents. The dairy scent was suggestive of cheese. I also found the aroma acidic.

The chocolate started out tasting earthy, and then revealed a wonderful collection of fruit flavors: citrus, lemon, berry, and watermelon. A cocoa roast and acidity were present along with the bonanza of fruit.

The melt was smooth. The chocolate flavor lasted about 25 to 30 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a medium length. The finish was somewhat acidic and slightly sour.

You can purchase Madagascar for $7.50 directly from Dick Taylor, or for $7.95 from The Meadow.

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Review: Patric Madagascar 67%

Richard's Rating: 7.5
chocolate makerPatric
barMadagascar 67%
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size65g ~ 2.3oz
cocoa solids67%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$7.99
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturematte, smooth, imprint
aromaroast (cocoa), earth, fruit (raisin, berry), dairy, vinegar
snaphard
tastesweet (molasses), roast (cocoa), dairy, fruit (plum, berry, citrus, raisin)
meltsmooth
lengthmedium
finishsomewhat acidic, slightly tannin
U.S. chocolate maker Patric currently hand-crafts nine bean to bar chocolate bars. Three of them are unflavored single origin bars: Rio Caribe Superior 70%, Madagascar 75%, and Madagascar 67%.

Maker and owner Alan McClure sourced the cacao beans for this bar from the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. The other ingredients were cane sugar and cocoa butter. The chocolate contained 67% cocoa solids. The unscored 65 gram bar came in sealed plastic inside a paper envelope. The best before date was 15 December 2012.

The chocolate had a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. The surface of the bar was matte, with just a few flecks of adhered chocolate and a minimal amount of scuffing. The sheen on the bottom revealed swirls from the pour. The bar had a hard snap.

Madagascar 67% gave off an aroma that included roast, earth, fruit, dairy, and vinegar. The roast was mostly cocoa, and the fruit contained raisin and berry scents.

The taste was unsurprisingly sweet, with a molasses flavor. The cocoa roast and dairy from the aroma were also present. Fruit came out in flavors of plum, berry, citrus, and raisin.

The chocolate had a smooth melt that was nearly more smooth. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting 30 to 35 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was somewhat acidic and slightly tannin.

You can purchase Madagascar 67% online for $7.99 directly from Patric or, to combine it with other brands of chocolate, for $7.95 from Chocosphere or for $7.99 from Chocolopolis or World Wide Chocolate.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Review: Stirs the Soul Origins Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 6.5
chocolate makerStirs the Soul
barOrigins Madagascar
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao treesTrinitario
year2011
size47g ~ 1.65oz
cocoa solids88%
added fatcocoa butter
sweeteneragave
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredientssalt
list price$6.25
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturesmooth, image imprint, bubbles
aromaearth, fruit (berry), wood, sweet (caramel)
snapmedium hard
tastefruit (pear, berry, papaya), sour, earth, wood, acidic, sweet
meltsmooth
lengthshort
finishsomewhat sour, slightly acidic
Stirs the Soul has been making bean to bar raw chocolate bars by hand since 2006. Their motto is "conscious raw chocolate", and chocolate maker Daren Hayes ensures the temperature during processing never exceeds 111 degrees Fahrenheit (44°C).

Using only only organic or wild ingredients combined with organic and fair trade cacao, Stirs the Soul also avoids cane sugar by using low glycemic sweeteners, such as agave, date, honey, and coconut palm. Their chocolate is produced in a nut, gluten, soy, and dairy free environment. Stirs the Soul makes two single origin chocolates: Origins Ecuador and Origins Madagascar.

Origins Madagascar contained 88% cocoa solids and was made from Trinitario cacao beans, cocoa butter, agave, and salt. The cacao beans came from Madagascar and the cocoa butter was made from the same cacao beans. All of the ingredients were raw other than the salt. Although the bar was not certified, the ingredients were all organic and the cacao was fair trade. The 1.65 ounce bar was unscored, had raised areas, and was imprinted with a design of cacao pods. It came wrapped in two layers, wax paper under orange-sided foil, inside a paper sleeve. The bar was made on 20 October 2011 and had a best before date of 20 April 2012.

The color of the chocolate was a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431). The surface of the bar was smooth, but had several bubbles. The snap was medium hard.

Origins Madagascar had an aroma with earth, fruit, and wood scents, along with a caramel sweetness. I thought the fruit scent included some berry.

The chocolate tasted of fruit, earth, and wood. Sourness, acidity, and some sweetness were also present. The fruit flavor was a mix of pear and berry, with papaya near the end.

The melt was smooth. The chocolate flavor lasted about 15 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving it a short length. The finish was somewhat sour and slightly acidic.

I found myself surprised by the slight sweetness of this 88% chocolate. Overall, another good raw chocolate. I liked Origins Madagascar a little more than Origins Ecuador due to the complex fruit flavor.

You can purchase Origins Madagascar bars in packs of two for $12.50 in the U.S. directly from Stirs the Soul, or internationally if you phone them at 503-774-4903.

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

Review: Amano Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 9.0
chocolate makerAmano
barMadagascar
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size56g ~ 2.0oz
cocoa solids70%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoringvanilla
other ingredients(none)
list price$6.95
colormedium-light brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturesmooth with text imprints, scoring
aromaroast (tobacco, cocoa), fruit (berry), spice (vanilla, hint of cinnamon)
snapmedium hard
tastesweet, fruit (citrus, orange, lime, berry, strawberry, raspberry), vanilla, roast
meltmore smooth
lengthmedium
finishslightly acidic, slightly sour
U.S. chocolate maker Amano makes eight single origin dark chocolate bars, one of which is Madagascar. The cacao beans for this chocolate came from the renown Sambirano Valley of Madagascar.

The ingredients of Madagascar were the same as Art Pollard's other chocolates: cacao beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter made from the same cacao beans, and vanilla beans. He also used the same ratio of 70% cocoa solids.

The two ounce bar was scored into 15 pieces, each with an imprint of the company name and emblem. It came wrapped in gold-sided foil and packaged inside a glossy paper box. A sticker on the back of the box identified lot number 3/4/90E and a best before date of October 2013.

Madagascar had a medium-light brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. The surface was smooth, with some barely noticeable scuffing. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma contained scents of tobacco and cocoa roast, along with a berry fruit, and a strong vanilla. I also smelled a hint of cinnamon..

I initially tasted sweetness, and then the chocolate revealed a lovely combination of fruit flavors: citrus that was more orange than lime along with berry that was a combination of strawberry and raspberry. Vanilla was also clearly evident over a mild roast flavor.

The melt was just a bit better than smooth and into the more smooth category. The flavor after the chocolate was gone lasted 30 to 35 seconds, giving it a medium length. The finish was slightly acidic and slightly sour.

Overall, other than being a bit too sweet for my palate, this chocolate was great in nearly every way. I was so impressed that, after taking my initial tasting notes, I followed up with a comparative tasting against our two top-ranked Madagascar chocolates (Rogue Sambirano and Patric Madagascar 75%), and Amano Madagascar came out best! It just missed making it onto my list of 10 favorite chocolate bars, and is currently ranked 11. Madagascar won a Gold award in 2009 from the Academy of Chocolate, and it was clearly well-deserved.

Madagascar is not currently available directly from Amano, but you can purchase it online for $6.95 from New Leaf or for $6.99 from Chocolopolis or World Wide Chocolate.

Monday, March 5, 2012

Review: Madécasse 80%

Richard's Rating: 6.0
chocolate makerMadécasse
bar80%
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size75g ~ 2.6oz
cocoa solids80%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$5.99
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1015
Bracken
texturesmooth with stylized cacao bean imprints, scoring, bubbles
aromafloral, roast (burnt, smoky), acidic
snapmedium hard
tasteroast (burnt), earth (soil), fruit (citrus, berry, apricot, lime), nut
meltsmooth
lengthshort
finishroast (burnt), slightly acidic
Madécasse makes single origin Madagascar chocolate locally in Madagascar. They work closely with the nearby Ezaka Cooperative of cacao farmers from whom they purchase beans at well above fair trade prices.

Unlike the 70% and 75% bars, Madécasse 80% had neither soy lecithin nor vanilla among its ingredients. It was made from only cacao beans, sugar, and cocoa butter.

The 80% bar used the same molds: 75 grams scored into 24 pieces, each with a stylized cacao imprint. It was wrapped in gold-sided foil and put inside a paper envelope. The best before date on the wrapper was January 2012, so I reviewed this chocolate more than a month past its best.

The color of this chocolate was a medium brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015). The surface of the bar was smooth, with several bubbles (many more than 70% or 75%). The snap was medium hard.

80% had an aroma similar to the other bars: an initial floral, then a burnt and smoky roast, and some acidity. I didn't notice the expected fruit scent.

The chocolate tasted of burnt roast, but it wasn't smoky as with 70% and 75%. I experienced an earthy soil flavor before the fruits came out: citrus, berry, apricot, and lime. There was some nuttiness as well.

The melt was slower than 70% and 75%, but still smooth. The length was short, with flavor after the chocolate was gone lasting 15 to 20 seconds. The final aftertaste was a slightly acidic burnt roast.

You can purchase 80% online for $5.99 directly from Madécasse. At the time of this posting, Chocosphere has a clearance sale on 80% bars with a best before date of January 2012 at half off: 2 for $5.95.

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Review: Madécasse 75%

Richard's Rating: 6.0
chocolate makerMadécasse
bar75%
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size75g ~ 2.6oz
cocoa solids75%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifiersoy lecithin
flavoringvanilla
other ingredients(none)
list price$5.99
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturesmooth with stylized cacao bean imprints, scoring, bubbles
aromafloral, roast (burnt, smoky), fruit, acidic, spice
snapmedium hard
tastefruit (citrus, berry, cherry), roast (burnt), earth, sweet, tannin
meltsmooth
lengthshort
finishslightly acidic, slightly tannin
Madécasse makes single origin Madagascar chocolate locally in Madagascar! They work closely with the nearby Ezaka Cooperative of cacao farmers from whom they purchase beans at well above fair trade prices.

As with their 70% bar, Madécasse 75% was made from cacao beans, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, and vanilla. The 75 gram bar was scored into 24 pieces, each with a stylized cacao imprint. It was wrapped in gold-sided foil and put inside a paper envelope. The best before date on the wrapper of the bar was December 2011, so this chocolate, too, was not at its best for the review.

The chocolate had a medium brown color close to Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431). The surface of the bar was smooth, with a few small bubbles. Signs of a flaw can be seen in the bottom right of the photo above. Some air remained in the chocolate as it cooled, and that left minor gaps in two of the pieces and some bubbles throughout. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma of 75% was similar to that of 70%. The acidity seemed a bit stronger and the spice weaker. Otherwise it smelled much the same: initial floral, a burnt and smoky roast, with fruit, acidity, and spice.

Flavors included fruits in the form of citrus, berry and cherry, a burnt roast, earth, sweetness and tannin. Compared with the 70%, the citrus was stronger and the burnt roast more in the background. It was less sweet and had tannin that I didn't notice in the 70%

75% had a smooth melt. The length was short, with flavor after the chocolate was gone lasting about 15 seconds. The finish was slightly acidic and slightly tannin.

Overall, while quite similar to the 70%, I preferred the flavor and aftertaste of 75%.

You can purchase 75% online for $5.99 directly from Madécasse. As with the 70% bar, Chocosphere is currently running a sale on 75% bars with a best before date of June 2012 for only $4.15 (30% off).

Wednesday, February 29, 2012

Review: Madécasse 70%

Richard's Rating: 5.5
chocolate makerMadécasse
bar70%
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size75g ~ 2.6oz
cocoa solids70%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifiersoy lecithin
flavoringvanilla
other ingredients(none)
list price$5.99
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1015
Bracken
texturesmooth with stylized cacao bean imprints, scoring, bubble
aromafloral, roast (burnt, smoky), spice, fruit, acidic
snapmedium hard
tastefruit (berry, citrus, cherry), roast (burnt), sweet, earth
meltsmooth
lengthshort
finishroast (burnt), slightly bitter
Madécasse makes single origin Madagascar chocolate in Madagascar! Working locally, they are frequently able to start production within a month of the cacao beans being dried. Madécasse works closely with the local Ezaka Cooperative of cacao farmers from whom they purchase beans at well above fair trade prices.

Madécasse 70% was made from cacao beans, sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, and vanilla. The 75 gram bar was scored into 24 pieces, each with a stylized cacao imprint. It was wrapped in gold-sided foil and put inside a paper envelope. The best before date on the wrapper of the bar was December 2011, so this chocolate was not at its best for this review.

The chocolate had a medium brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) color. The surface of the bar was smooth, with only a single bubble and some discoloration in the scoring. The snap was medium hard.

The aroma began with floral and roast, the latter of which smelled burnt and smoky. I detected scents of spice, fruit and acidity.

70% tasted of fruit, including berry, citrus, and cherry. The burnt roast from the aroma was clearly present. I also tasted sweetness and an earth flavor.

The chocolate had a smooth melt. The flavor after the chocolate was gone lasted only about 10 seconds, given a short length. The aftertaste was a burnt roast with a slight bitterness that lingered.

Madécasse 70% won Best in Show at the 2009 New York Chocolate Show. My experience of this chocolate was good, but not great. The roast seemed too strong, impacting the other aromas and flavors, and the length and finish weren't great. However, note that this review is for a chocolate past its best before date.

You can purchase 70% online for $5.99 directly from Madécasse. Better yet, Chocosphere is currently running a sale on 70% bars with a best before date of June 2012 for only $4.15 (30% off).

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

Review: Fresco 216 Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 7.0
chocolate makerFresco
bar216
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year2011
size40g ~ 1.4oz
cocoa solids74%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list priceN/A
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturelined with scoring, bubbles
aromaearth, fruit, spice, roast
snaphard
tasteearth, roast, nut, fruit (berry, citrus, lime)
meltsmooth
lengthmedium
finishvery slightly tannin, very slightly sour
Fresco made 216 with the same batch of cacao beans from Madagascar that it used for its 214 and 215 chocolate bars. Fresco altered its recipe for each of these chocolates, but used identical ingredients. All three were made with 74% cocoa solids (including cocoa butter made from the same cacao beans) and 26% cane sugar. 216 had a medium roast and long conche.

The small 40 gram bar was scored into 10 pieces and wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper. The outer paper package was stamped with a production date of March 18, 2011, and a best before date of April 2013.

216 had a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. (It appears lighter brown in the photo because I used a flash on this overcast rainy morning in Seattle). The surface was smooth, and each piece was lined either horizontally or vertically. There were bubbles in the top corners of several pieces. The bar had a hard snap.

The chocolate revealed aromas of earth, fruit, spice, and roast. As it was in the 215, the earth scent was strongest. However, the fruit scent was stronger in this chocolate than in the 215.

The taste of 216 had early flavors of earth, roast, and nut. When the fruit emerged, I first tasted berry, then general citrus, and finally a non-acidic lime flavor for the last of the chocolate.

This chocolate melted smoothly. The length just made it to medium, with the flavor after the chocolate was gone lasting about 20 seconds. The finish was very slightly tannin and very slightly sour.

All three are good chocolates, but I prefer the lighter roast and tart flavor of 214 to that of 215 and 216.

You can purchase Fresco 216 online for $6.95 from The Meadow.

Sunday, February 19, 2012

Review: Fresco 215 Madagascar

Richard's Rating: 7.0
chocolate makerFresco
bar215
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year2011
size40g ~ 1.4oz
cocoa solids74%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list priceN/A
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturelined with scoring, bubbles
aromaearth, spice, roast, fruit
snaphard
tasteearth, roast, fruit (berry, citrus, grapefruit, raspberry, lemon), nut, sweet
meltsmooth
lengthshort
finishslightly tannin
Fresco 215 was a single origin bean to bar chocolate made with cacao beans from Madagascar. The chocolate was crafted using a medium roast and a medium conche. 215 was made with 74% cocoa solids (including cocoa butter made from the same cacao beans) and 26% cane sugar.

The small 40 gram bar was scored into 10 pieces and wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper. The outer paper package was stamped with a production date of March 4, 2011, and a best before date of April 2013.

The color of 215 was a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431). The surface was smooth, and each piece was nicely lined, but with bubbles in several top corners. The bar had a hard snap.

215 gave off aromas of earth, spice, roast, and, more subtly, fruit. The earth scent was strongest.

This chocolate tasted earthy, too, but soon revealed roast and fruit flavors of berry and citrus. I tasted the berry as raspberry and the citrus as grapefruit and lemon. In addition, there was some nuttiness and sweetness.

215 had a smooth melt. The flavor after the chocolate was gone lasted 15 to 20 seconds, giving it a short length. The final aftertaste was slightly tannin.

You can purchase Fresco 215 online for $6.95 from The Meadow.

Friday, January 13, 2012

Review: Dandelion Sambirano Madagascar

Lindy's Rating: 8.0
Richard's Rating: 7.5
chocolate makerDandelion
barSambirano
Madagascar
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year2011
size56g ~ 2.0oz
cocoa solids70%
added fat(none)
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifier(none)
flavoring(none)
other ingredients(none)
list price$8.00
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1526
Dark Red Brown
texturesmooth with scoring
aromaearth, spice, woody, fruit (berry), floral, butter
snaphard
tastefruit (berry, citrus, raspberry, plum), sweet, roast, earth
meltsmooth
lengthshort
finishslightly tangy, slightly tannin
Dandelion was on batch number 3 for their single origin Madagascar chocolate made with organic cacao beans from Åkesson's in the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. The sticker on the wrapper was titled Sambirano, Venezuela and indicated that the beans were from the June 2011 harvest. The back sticker was initialed twice by Alice Nystrom, indicating that she was primarily responsible for both the batch and the packaging.

Sambirano, Madagascar was made with 70% cacao beans and 30% cane sugar. There was no any added cocoa butter, emulsifier, or flavoring, and no contamination with dairy, gluten, nuts, or soy. The two ounce bar was scored into 18 pieces, each with 5 parallel squiggles, and came wrapped with heavy gold-sided foil and packaged inside a pretty paper cover. There was no production date or best before date on the wrapper, but the bar was made in 2011.

The chocolate had a medium brown Dark Red Brown (PANTONE 19-1526) color. The top surface looked nicely smooth like Dandelion's other bars whose temper Lindy liked so much. It had a hard snap.

Madagascar gave off an aroma that included earth, spice, wood, and a berry fruit. Lindy also smelled some floral, and I noticed the scent of butter.

The taste of Madagascar was fruity -- berry, citrus, raspberry, plum, and likely some other fruits we didn't identify. Berry was the strongest of the fruit flavors, but the others were clearly present. Non-fruit flavors included sweetness and roast. I also experienced some earthiness.

The melt was smooth. The flavor lasted about 15 to 20 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a short length. The finish was slightly tangy, and, for me, slightly tannin as well.

Overall, we both liked this chocolate quite a lot, about as much as Dandelion's Costa Rica bar. Lindy found the more interesting fruit flavors compensated for the melt and length. I concluded that they didn't quite make up for Costa Rica's better melt and length. You can find both of them on our list of Best Chocolates Overall.

You can purchase Dandelion Madagascar online directly from Dandelion for $8.00, or, if you would like to combine the purchase with other brands, from Chocolopolis for $8.99.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Review: TCHO Citrus

Lindy's Rating: 8.0
Richard's Rating: 7.5
chocolate makerTCHO
barCitrus
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao trees(unknown)
year(unknown)
size58g ~ 2.0oz
cocoa solids67%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifiersoy lecithin
flavoringvanilla
other ingredients(none)
list price$5.48
colormedium brown
PANTONE 19-1015
Bracken
texturesmooth, scoring, curving lines, superficial ring
aromaroast (cocoa, smoke), fruit (citrus, berry, hint of banana), sweet
snaphard
tasteroast, fruit (citrus, lime, berry, orange, cherry, hint of banana), sweet
meltsmooth to more smooth
lengthmedium
finishslightly acidic
TCHO makes chocolate with the goal of producing a flavor from their wheel of six primary chocolate flavors. TCHO is a U.S. bean to bar chocolate maker in San Francisco. They pride themselves on innovation and leveraging technology to make their chocolate better, and work closely with their cacao farmers to improve fermentation and drying practices.

Citrus was made with cacao beans, cane sugar, cocoa butter, soy lecithin, and vanilla beans. It was made with cacao from the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. The chocolate contained 67% cocoa solids, and was certified organic by the USDA. The two ounce bar was scored in 9 pieces and came wrapped in gold-sided wax paper and packaged inside a bright yellow paper box. There was no production or best before date for the bar we reviewed, but the box did have a sticker with the number 2561.

The chocolate had a medium brown color close to Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) and a generally smooth surface that was imprinted with TCHO's intricate wavy lines. There was a superficial ring visible on the top surface, but that came off with gentle rubbing. The bottom surface revealed an apparently typical pattern from filling the mold. The bar had a hard snap.

Citrus had a nice fruity and roast aroma. The fruit was primarily citrus, with some berry and a hint of banana. The roast was cocoa and smoke. I also smelled sweetness.

After an initial roast taste, Citrus revealed many fruit flavors, including general citrus, lime, berry, orange, cherry, and just a suggestion of banana. It also tasted sweet. Lindy liked the fruit flavors, but found the taste of this chocolate "not as citrusy as [she] expected."

We didn't quite agree about the melt. Lindy found it just shy of more smooth and rated it smooth. To me, it was just beyond that threshold and felt more smooth. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting 20 to 25 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was slightly acidic.

You can purchase TCHO Citrus online directly from TCHO for $10.95 for two bars.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Review: E. Guittard Ambanja 65%

Lindy's Rating: 7.5
Richard's Rating: 8.0

chocolate makerGuittard
barAmbanja
regionMadagascar
plantation(blend)
cacao treesCriollo,
(unknown)
year(unknown)
size57g ~ 2.0oz
cocoa solids72%
added fatcocoa butter
sweetenercane sugar
emulsifiersoy lecithin
flavoringvanilla
other ingredients(none)
list price$3.89

colorlight brown
PANTONE 19-1431
Fudgesickle
texturesmooth with signature imprints and scoring, slightly uneven sheen
aromaearth, spice (clove), roast (cocoa), coconut, vanilla
snaphard
tastesweet (brown sugar, honey), blueberry, orange, spice, roast, earth
meltsmooth
lengthmedium
finishsweet, slightly sour, slightly tart
Ambanja is a single origin bar made by U.S. chocolate maker E. Guittard. It was made with a mix of Criollo and other cacao beans from the Sambirano Valley of Madagascar. Ambanja had 65% cocoa solids (cacao beans and cocoa butter); the other ingredients were cane sugar, soy lecithin, and vanilla beans.

This two ounce bar was scored into 12 pieces, each with an E. Guittard signature imprint. The chocolate came wrapped in brassy-colored foil inside a paper cover. The best before date on the wrapper was October 2012.

The color of Ambanja was a surprisingly light brown Fudgesickle color (PANTONE 19-1431), almost as if it were a milk chocolate. The surface was smooth, with some slight differences in sheen. Those differences appear more dramatic in the photo above than they were in person. The bar had a hard snap.

This chocolate had a strong earth aroma, but with other scents as well. We smelled a spice that I experienced as clove, a roast in the form of cocoa, a scent of coconut, and vanilla.

Ambanja had sweet flavors of brown sugar and honey, but the strongest flavor became blueberry as the chocolate melted. Adding complexity were an orange and a mixed spice. Note that the orange wasn't a citrus fruit, but more like an extract. I also tasted roast and earth.

The melt was smooth. The flavor lasted about 30 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving it a medium length. The finish was sweet and slightly sour, and after a few minutes the final aftertaste was slightly tart as well.

You can purchase Guittard Ambanja online for $3.89 directly from Guittard or for $3.35 from Chocosphere.