Review: Dandelion Papua New Guinea

Lindy's Rating: 7.5

Richard's Rating: 7.5

chocolate maker Dandelion bar Papua New Guinea region Papua New Guinea plantation blend cacao trees unknown year 2013 size 56g ~ 2.0oz cocoa solids 70% added fat (none) sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price $12.00

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle appearance smooth, scoring, imprints aroma earth, roast (cocoa, smoke), spice (cinnamon), fruit (blackberry) snap hard taste sweet (brown sugar), wine, fruit (blackberry, cranberry), roast (smoke), earth, tart melt smooth length medium finish somewhat sweet, somewhat acidic

The cacao beans for Dandelion's Papua New Guinea bar were fire-dried after fermentation, as it typical for that region. The beans for this chocolate came from a 2011 harvest.

Dandelion never adds cocoa butter, lecithin, or vanilla. They crafted Papua New Guinea in their nut-free facility from only two ingredients: 70% cacao beans and 30% cane sugar.

The two ounce bar came wrapped in heavy gold-sided foil inside an outer wrapper of beautiful craft paper. The bar reviewed here was from batch 1, with a best before date of September, 2014.

Papua New Guinea looked great, with a smooth surface. The bar was scored into 18 pieces, each with imprints of 5 parallel squiggles.

The chocolate had a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. Though the snap seemed medium hard on the thin scoring lines, breaking one of the pieces revealed a nice, hard snap.

The aroma contained scents of earth, a smoky and cocoa roast, a cinnamon spice, and blackberry fruit.

The taste of Papua New Guinea began with a sweet brown sugar flavor over a background of earth and smoky roast. Red wine and fruit flavors -- blackberry with some cranberry -- came next. Lindy described it as jammy and tasting of preserves. The taste grew tart and the earth and smoke flavors increased towards the end.

The label described the taste as "a bold Southeastern-style barbecue tang. Its fruity notes give way to an earthy, leathery finish."

The chocolate had a smooth melt. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting about 35 to 40 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was somewhat acidic and surprisingly somewhat sweet.

In 2012, Fresco raised expectations for chocolates made of Papua New Guinea cacao, and this is another great chocolate from that region.

You can purchase Papua New Guinea online in the U.S. for $12.00 directly from Dandelion and in the U.K. for £5.95 from Bean to Bar Chocolate.

Review: Zotter Labooko Papua Neuguinea 75%

Richard's Rating: 6.5

chocolate maker Zotter bar Labooko Papua Neuguinea 75% region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 70g ~ 2.5oz cocoa solids 75% added fat cocoa butter sweetener sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients salt list price 3,35€

color medium brown PANTONE 18-1312 Deep Taupe appearance relief, imprints, textured top, bloom, adhered bits, scuffing aroma earth (must), roast (smoke), spice, vanilla snap hard taste roast (coffee, smoke), fruit (blackberry), earth, spice, sweet (molasses), tannin melt smooth length long finish tannin, somewhat bitter

Austrian chocolate maker Zotter makes several fair trade and organic bean to bar chocolates. They produce several unflavored single origin chocolates under their Labooko line as well as a huge variety of flavored chocolates.

Zotter sourced the cacao for Labooko Papua Neuguinea 75% from an organic and fair trade cooperative in Papua New Guinea. The ingredients of this chocolate were cocoa mass, raw cane sugar, cocoa butter, and salt. All of the ingredients other than salt were certified organic and fair trade. The salt content was 1% and cocoa solids (mass and butter) were 75%.

Papua Neuguinea 75% was sold in the standard Labooko packaging containing two 35 gram bars. Each bar was individually wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper that was glued into the folds of a heavy outer paper wrapper (which was taped closed).

The bar itself had a relief of "zotter" on a small smooth upper portion of the bar and imprints of "Labooko" and stylized cacao pods (one of which was covered in writing) on a textured lower portion of the bar. The best before date was November 27, 2013.

Unfortunately, the chocolate appeared to have bloomed slightly and had a medium brown Deep Taupe (PANTONE 18-1312) color. There were some bits of adhered chocolate and the surface was scuffed.

The snap was hard, almost very hard. Papua Neuguinea's aroma included scents of musty earth, roast, smoke, spice, and vanilla.

The taste contained flavors of roast, fruit, earth, and spice. The strong roast was mostly coffee and smoke. The only distinctive fruit flavor I identified was blackberry. The taste was also sweet with a molasses flavor and tannin.

The chocolate had a smooth melt. The chocolate flavor lasted more than 45 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving a long length. The finish was tannin and somewhat bitter.

You can purchase Labooko Papua Neuguinea 75% online for €3,35 directly from Zotter.

Review: Fresco 221 Papua New Guinea

Richard's Rating: 7.0

chocolate maker Fresco bar 221 region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2012 size 45g ~ 1.6oz cocoa solids 69% added fat (none) sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1518 Puce texture lined, scoring, bubbles aroma fruit, earth, roast, wood, dairy snap medium hard taste earth, roast (coffee), fruit (lime, blackberry), sweet (brown sugar), nut melt smooth length medium finish somewhat acidic, slightly bitter

221 is one of the four recipes that Rob Anderson used to craft Fresco chocolate using cacao from Papua New Guinea. We've already reviewed the other three: 219, 220, and 222. Fresco makes all of their chocolate in a nut-free environment.

All four recipes contained only two ingredients: 69% cacao beans and 31% cane sugar. 219 and 222 were made with a light roast, 220 with a medium roast, and 221 with a heavy roast. 219, 220, and 221 went through a medium conche; 222 was made with no conching.

221 came in Fresco's new 45 gram size, wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper inside a paper box. It was formed into their standard shape: scored into 10 pieces, each lined either horizontally or vertically. This particular bar was missing its production and best before information, but it was likely produced in September 2012 with a best before date of two years later.

This heavy roast chocolate had a slightly different color from Fresco's other Papua New Guinea bars: a medium brown Puce (PANTONE 19-1518) color rather than the Fudgesickle of the other three. Like the others, this bar looked great other than having small bubbles in the corners of some pieces. The snap was medium-hard.

Similar scents were present in the aroma of 221, but again in a different mix, with fruit, earth, roast, wood and dairy. Among the four, 221 had the strongest roast scent, and I couldn't smell any vinegar at all in this aroma.

Initially earthy, the taste of this chocolate quickly revealed a strong coffee roast. The coffee flavor grew sweet with the taste of brown sugar. Fruit flavors of lime and blackberry then came forward, along with nuttiness.

The melt was smooth. The length was medium, with the chocolate flavor lasting 25 to 30 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was acidic, but slightly bitter.

Although I liked this heavy roast 221 the least of the four recipes, it was still a good chocolate, and interesting to taste side-by-side with the others. 221 is not yet available online, but look for it soon at Chocolopolis.

Review: Fresco 220 Papua New Guinea

Richard's Rating: 7.5

chocolate maker Fresco bar 220 region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2012 size 45g ~ 1.6oz cocoa solids 69% added fat (none) sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle texture lined, scoring, bubbles aroma fruit, wood, dairy, earth, roast, hint of vinegar snap medium hard taste earth, fruit (blackberry, lime), nut, roast, sweet, acidic melt smooth length medium finish acidic, slightly sour

This year Rob Anderson experimented with dozens of variations and settled on four recipes for crafting his newest chocolate from Papua New Guinea cacao. Each of them (219, 220, 221, and 222) varies based on roast and conche. Fresco makes their chocolate in a nut-free environment.

All four recipes used 69% cacao beans and 31% cane sugar, with no other ingredients. 219 and 222 were made with a light roast, 220 with a medium roast, and 221 with a heavy roast. The first three went through a medium conche; 222 was made with no conching.

The 220 bar came in Fresco's new 45 gram size, wrapped in silver foil-sided wax paper inside a paper box. It was scored into 10 pieces, each lined either horizontally or vertically. The production date was September 10, 2012 (bar 192 in batch #220-12-038). The best before date was October 2014.

220 had a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color nearly identical to 219. The bar had small bubbles in the corners of some pieces, but otherwise looked great. The snap was medium-hard.

The aroma contained scents similar to 219, with fruit, wood, dairy, earth, and vinegar. However, not only was a roast scent clearly present, but the overall aroma smelled more strongly woody and the vinegar was merely a hint.

After an initial earthiness, the chocolate tasted of blackberry, strong lime, nut, and roast. 220 tasted substantially sweeter than 219 even though the sugar content was identical. I also experienced acidity.

The melt was smooth. The chocolate flavor didn't last quite as long after the chocolate was gone, roughly 20 to 25 seconds, though it remained in the medium range. The final aftertaste was acidic and again slightly sour.

Although I prefer the lighter roast of 219 to 220, this bar was yet another great chocolate from Fresco. You cannot yet purchase Fresco 220 online, but look for it soon at Chocolopolis.

Review: Fresco 219 Papua New Guinea

Richard's Rating: 8.0

chocolate maker Fresco bar 219 region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2012 size 45g ~ 1.6oz cocoa solids 69% added fat (none) sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle texture lined, scoring, bubbles aroma fruit, wood, dairy, vinegar snap medium hard taste earth, fruit (citrus, lime, blackberry), roast (cocoa), nut, sweet, sour, acidic, wood melt smooth length medium finish acidic, slightly sour

Fresco created four different chocolate recipes using Papua New Guinea cacao: 219, 220, 221, and 222. All four were made from 69% cacao beans and 31% cane sugar. They vary based on how they were roasted and conched.

219 had the same light roast as 222. It differed from 222 in that it was given a medium level of conching.

The chocolate came in a small 45 gram bar scored into 10 pieces, each lined either horizontally or vertically. The bar came wrapped in gold foil-sided wax paper inside a paper box. The production date was September 1, 2012 (bar 278 in batch #219-12-037). The best before date was October 2014.

The color of 219 was a medium brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431), slightly darker than 222. The bar had tiny bubbles in the corners of some pieces, but otherwise looked great. The snap was medium-hard.

219 had an aroma containing fruit, wood, dairy, earth, and vinegar. It differed from 222 in that it was much less earthy and I didn't smell any olive.

The flavors in the taste included earth, fruit, roast, nut and wood. The fruit flavors I tasted were citrus, lime, and blackberry. The roast was a mild cocoa. It was also sweet, sour, and acidic.

The melt was smooth. The length was medium, with the flavor lasting between 30 and 35 seconds after the chocolate was gone. The final aftertaste was acidic and slightly sour.

Overall, while both are terrific, I slightly prefer 219 to 222. The melt of 219 is smoother and while it lacks just a little of the strong fruit taste of 222, I like the added cocoa and nut flavors. Fresco 219 won a gold award in the single origin category at the Northwest Chocolate Festival.

Fresco 219 is not yet available online, but look for it soon at Chocolopolis.

Review: Fresco 222 Papua New Guinea

Richard's Rating: 8.0

chocolate maker Fresco bar 222 region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year 2012 size 45g ~ 1.6oz cocoa solids 69% added fat (none) sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium-light brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle texture lined, scoring, bubbles aroma earth, fruit (hint of olive), wood, vinegar, dairy snap medium hard taste earth, fruit (citrus, lime, blackberry, cranberry), sweet, sour melt smooth length medium finish acidic, somewhat astringent

Based on maker Rob Anderson's suggestion, we reviewed a new bar of recipe 222 this week. Because it was made less than three weeks ago, we have the opportunity to review this chocolate while it is still extremely fresh. In about three months, we'll update this review with a second perspective after the chocolate has aged.

This is the first bar we've reviewed with Fresco's new packaging that better highlights roast and conching strategy used in making the chocolate. They also increased the bar size from 40 to 45 grams. Fresco continues to make all of their chocolate in a nut-free facility.

Fresco made four recipes using single origin cacao from Papua New Guinea: 219, 220, 221, and 222. They only varied in roast and conche.

222 was a single origin bar made with 69% cacao beans and 31% cane sugar. There was no added cocoa butter. This formulation used a light roast and no conching. It was the only recipe that had no conching.

This chocolate came in the new 45 gram size. The bar still had a nearly identical shape: scored into 10 pieces, each lined either vertically or horizontally. It came wrapped in silver foil-sided wax paper inside a paper box that was wider than the previous ones. The production date was September 14, 2012 (bar 152 in batch #222-12-039). The best before date was October 2014.

222 had a medium-light brown Fudgesickle (PANTONE 19-1431) color. As typical for Fresco, the bar looked great other than having bubbles in the corners of some pieces. The snap was medium-hard.

The aroma was earthy, with additional scents of fruit, wood, vinegar and some dairy. I also smelled just a hint of olive.

The chocolate tasted earthy and strongly of fruit. I experienced the citrus and berry fruit flavors primarily as lime, blackberry, and cranberry. The taste was both sweet and somewhat sour.

The melt was smooth, but on the less smooth side. The flavor lasted 35 to 40 seconds after the chocolate was gone, giving it a medium length, nearly making it to long. The finish was acidic and somewhat astringent.

Overall, this is the best Papua New Guinea bar I've tasted since Michel Cluizel Maralumi 64% two years ago. Unfortunately, I can't compare them head to head at present, so I'm not sure which I like better. I look forward to tasting the other three Papua New Guinea bars that Fresco recently released.

Fresco 222 is not yet available online, but look for it soon at Chocolopolis.

Review: Amano Morobe

Lindy's Rating: 7.5

Richard's Rating: 7.5

chocolate maker Amano bar Morobe region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 56g ~ 2.0oz cocoa solids 70% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring vanilla other ingredients (none) list price $6.95

color medium brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth with text imprints, scoring, bubbles, curved bottom aroma roast, floral, earth, fruit (citrus), hint of dairy snap medium hard taste earth, fruit (citrus, grapefruit, lime, blackberry), roast (smoke), sweet melt smooth length medium finish slightly acidic, hint of smoke

Art Pollard found the cacao beans for this chocolate in the southernmost part of Papua New Guinea, and tried many variations of roasting temperatures and times, and conching temperatures and times, to discover how best to release the flavors of these beans.

Amano Morobe contains 70% cocoa solids (cacao beans and added cocoa butter from the same beans) plus cane sugar and whole vanilla beans. The two ounce bar was scored into 15 pieces, each with an imprint of the company emblem and name.

The bar came wrapped in gold-sided foil in a glossy paper container. A small sticker was printed with lot 3/4/92B and a best before date of May 2013.

Morobe had a medium brown Bracken (PANTONE 19-1015) color. The surface was smooth, with some tiny bubbles on the top. The shape of the bar, however, was uneven, with the bottom surface curved so that the middle part was thinker than the edges. Perhaps due to insufficient time before cooling? The bar had a medium hard snap.

The aromas of Morobe included roast, floral, earth, and a citrus fruit. I also smelled a hint of dairy.

The chocolate first tasted of earth and then fruit, primarily citrus, but also berry. We identified the citrus as grapefruit and lime and the berry as blackberry. The other prevalent flavor was a smoky roast. I experienced sweetness as well.

Morobe had a smooth melt. Its length was medium, with the flavor after the chocolate was gone lasting 20 to 30 seconds. The final aftertaste was slightly acidic with a hint of the smoky roast.

You can purchase Morobe online for $6.95 directly from Amano for delivery to the U.S. or Canada. If you want to combine it with the purchase of another brand of chocolate, you can buy it for $6.95 from NewLeaf Chocolates or for $7.00 from The Meadow.

Review: Michel Cluizel Maralumi 64%

Lindy's Rating: 8.0 (previously ***)

Richard's Rating: 8.0 (previously ***)

chocolate maker Michel Cluizel bar Maralumi 64% region Papua New Guinea plantation Maralumi cacao trees (unknown) year (unknown) size 100g ~ 3.5oz cocoa solids 64% added fat cocoa butter sweetener cane sugar emulsifier (none) flavoring bourbon vanilla other ingredients (none) list price N/A

color medium-dark brown PANTONE 19-1431 Fudgesickle texture smooth with text imprints and scoring aroma earthy, roast (tobacco), red fruit, hint of citrus snap hard taste strong berries, strawberry, almond, coffee melt more smooth length minimal finish somewhat dry

Michel Cluizel's 1er Cru de Plantation Maralumi was the favorite at our recent blind chocolate tasting. All seven tasters rated it either *** or ****, and ranked it first or second among the seven bars tasted that evening.

This 64% bar from the Maralumi plantation is the second bar that we have reviewed from Papua New Guinea. It had a medium dark brown color. Three tasters observed tiny air bubbles in the break of their pieces after testing the snap.

The primary aroma that nearly everyone noticed was earthy, roast, or both. Lindy and I both smelled red fruit, and she detected a hint of citrus as well, while I thought the roast was tobacco. The Maralumi bar had wonderful strong red berry flavors that most people tasted. Lindy identified the berry as strawberry, another person did so as currant, and the rest of us only as fruit or berry. Several of us also experienced almond and/or coffee.

This chocolate had a great melt: smoother than average. Sadly, the length was minimal, but this was partially redeemed by a mild, dry finish, with only a very slight bitterness.

There isn't a list price for Maralumi 64%, but you can find it at Chocolopolis for $6.99.

Unfortunately, I did not have an opportunity to photograph the opened chocolate bars at the tasting, so I only have a picture of the wrapper.

Review: Pralus Papouasie

Lindy's Rating: 6.5 (previously **)

Richard's Rating: 6.5 (previously **)

chocolate maker Pralus bar Papouasie region Papua New Guinea plantation (blend) cacao trees Trinitario year (unknown) size 100g ~ 3.5oz cocoa solids 75% added fat cocoa butter sweetener sugar emulsifier soy lecithin flavoring (none) other ingredients (none) list price €3,79

color dark brown PANTONE 19-1015 Bracken texture smooth with text imprint and scoring aroma earthy, musty, allspice snap hard taste smoky, sweet cinnamon, hint of orange melt smooth length short finish very slightly bitter

As suggested by the name of this bar, which is French for Papua, Francois Pralus's Papouasie is made from Trinitario cacao beans from Papua New Guinea.

Papouasie is another dark brown chocolate from Pralus, but Bracken in color rather than the Dark Red Brown of Le 100%. The appearance of the bar is otherwise quite similar to Le 100%, with identical scoring and imprint. This bar had a hard snap that caused tiny pieces of chocolate to flake off at the break, so it was slightly messy.

The aroma was earthy, which we later clarified as musty, along with the scent of allspice. Note that the musty aroma was not unpleasant at all, just the most specific description we thought of to reflect the earthy smell.

The taste of this bar was interesting. There was an overall smoky flavor, along with what Lindy identified as a sweet cinnamon with a hint of orange. We both liked the taste, though were disappointed that the flavor disappeared so quickly (short length). There was little finish, with only a very slight bitterness.

Ultimately, we both enjoyed this chocolate enough to add the bar to our respective top ten rankings.

Pralus Papouasie is available at Chocolopolis for $9.50.